What’s at the Bottom of Cooks Bay: Part Three, the West Holland River

This article originally appeared in slightly edited form in my cottage newsletter the “Big Cedar News”. A small weekly for residents of Big Cedar Point on Lake Simcoe.

It’s time to wrap up this story, and the summer! Both are likely to be a bit of a letdown really.

When we were last together, we had gone all the way (as far as a WaveRunner is concerned) up the east branch of the Holland River.  For our last outing we will go up the west branch. Plus, see what’s on the west shore of the bay on our way home.

There’s not that much to say about the west branch really.  The first “interesting” thing you’ll encounter is some kind of “trailer park”. But this place is like the trailer park of trailer parks. They have huge signs reminding you to slow down IT’S THE LAW. Even though it’s not. Not here anyway. Just a few dozen meters up the river from this is what I’m pretty sure used to be a marina.  It’s now a dock where there were lots of Asian people fishing. Just for the record, that’s not meant to be derogatory in any way, it just happens to be true.  I pulled over to ask what the story was. Turns out it’s a “fishing club” (there are lots of air quotes when you’re talking about the places in Keswick/Bradford/etc.). It’s called FisHaven. It seems you can buy a membership to fish there. There’s also some vague association with the Catholic Church. So, it’s like the Loretto Maryholme Retreat we saw in part one, except in every way. Everyone was very friendly.

Sorry the pictures aren’t great, but I didn’t want to drive right up and photograph people. Especially the “trailer park” (quotes again) people, they seemed like they might be armed.

From here there’s not a lot to talk about until you get to the end. There are a few interesting domes in the distance, I’m guessing they’re part of a water treatment plant of some kind. 

There is a marina here, the Sun Simcoe Marina. A few years ago, when I bought the very WaveRunner that’s carrying us along, this is where I test drove it. The whole place is run by one old Asian lady (again, that just happens to be the case) and is kind of slowly rotting into the ground. You can at least launch your boat for criminally high prices though.

There’s some kind of bizarre barge here that has perhaps the most charitable name I’ve ever seen on a boat. The “Island Princess” out of Collingwood. This boat is a princess the same way that some crazy old lady’s pug dog with severe nasal issues that’s named “Princess” is a Princess. Once more we are treated to the usual compliment of boathouses and “houses” houses that are rotting into the ground (I mean really, these quotation marks are getting out of control). And once more we are forced to wonder who owns these things and why.

The large road/rail bridge across the river is the end of the line for the WaveRunner. It would fit underneath, but it’s proper swamp on the other side, the rest is only navigable by canoe. 

That’s it for the river. Let’s go home. But we’ll have one or two stops on the way.  As you return along the western shore of the bay, you’ll encounter a small marina that not many people know is there.  Cooks Bay Marina is honestly not a bad little marina. There was some kind of party happening near the entrance. Guess the ethnicity of the people at the party.

Wrong! They were middle eastern. Canada is diverse you racist.

Up next is Kon-Tiki Marina. Which has two of my favourite places on the lake right now. The Jean and Joy Café, which has great coffee and some neat local produce, and the Gilford Local Eatery, which has a bottle shop of weird wines and a menu of great sandwiches. The eatery is open in the summer for cars and boats, and in the winter for cars and snowmobiles, being closed in the shoulder seasons.

The marina is on a small “river” (sorry I can’t resist) that continues under a road bridge, with what appears to be a Beer Store? I can’t figure out what’s going on here, it seems to be someone’s boathouse with a Beer Store sign? But it had opening hours posted in the window… if anyone knows what this is let me know.

We’re almost home. One more stop.  Degrassi Point, in my opinion, marks the end of the bottom of Cooks Bay in the west, the same way that Roches Point (do you remember how to pronounce it?) does in the east.  There are a few interesting cottages here. Perhaps the last few “cottagey” cottages left on the lake.

I really like Degrassi Point for the fact that they’ve kept it this way, most of the homes look to be frozen in time from when Lake Simcoe was still genuine cottage country. Not all, at least one “modern” build has crept in, but it’s a nice little time capsule.  I think they have an association like ours, but much more involved, including owning lake front property and maintaining nothing but woods behind the homes.

So that’s it, that’s the bottom of Cooks Bay. If anyone has genuinely read all these silly articles thank you very much for joining me, it means a lot.

See you next summer.

-Ted Jr.

What’s at the Bottom of Cooks Bay: Part Three, the West Holland River

What’s at the Bottom of Cooks Bay: Part Two, the East Holland River

This article originally appeared in slightly edited form in my cottage newsletter the “Big Cedar News”. A small weekly for residents of Big Cedar Point on Lake Simcoe.

Inspired by the positive feedback of literally dozen of people I decided to keep this going and continue exploring. My name may not yet be counted amongst the likes of Amundsen, Scott, Franklin, or Shackleton… but at least I haven’t frozen to death. So I’ve got that going for me, which is nice.

Anyway, as presaged in the last article, what’s at the bottom of the Holland River? Quite a lot it turns out. Even I was surprised by how far you can go. It may not be as scenic as the Danube or the Rhine, but it has the big advantage of being much closer to me than either of those rivers. That’s the only advantage, everything else is worse.

But wait! Before we enter the Holland River it’s time to catch up on one thing we left out of the last article. The Maskinonge River, or “that river that Krates Marina is on”. My daughter and I decided to go out for lunch by boat recently, and I wanted to go somewhere I’d never gone before. Looking at the map I found that the “Riveredge Restaurant” is on that river. It looked dodgy from the outside but was actually fine inside, the food was edible, and the beer was cold. If you’re looking for more than that Keswick is not where you want to be. Anyway, everyone was very friendly. To continue up the river from Krates there is a low bridge that you need to go under. A Waverunner/Sea-Doo will go under no problem, but larger boats will have an issue. The image of the restaurant itself is from their website, the other is our exploration vessel. See also my companion for this lunch, she looks ecstatic, after all what 13-year-old girl wouldn’t love seeing the Maskinonge River?

As mentioned in the last article, for such as small “river” you can go surprisingly far on it, though most of it looks like this.

The little marina you see here is called AM Watersports and will rent you a jet-ski. In doing this I’ve been surprised by how many of these little operations are on the lake. Must be hard to make money renting for only a few months a year, and realistically only a few weekends of those months.

Unfortunately, while the jet-ski is great for exploring because of its shallow draft, it has one fatal problem. If you drive through a weedy area you can block the jet intake (it will suck up loose weeds). It’s unlikely to make the machine quit running, but anything other than idle speed will become impossible as the intake simply can’t pull enough water. This happened to us here, and I had to go slowly all the way back out to the lake and to one of the parks from part one. There I had to get in the water and under the ski to pull out the weeds. Keep this fact in mind.

Back to the Holland River. Which is much closer to being an actual river.

The entrance to the river is nondescript except for some channel markers. The first thing I noticed was that there were a great many channel markers stuffed up on the banks of the river. I guess they’ve moved and no one has come to move them back?

Here around the mouth of the river there were also a fair number of people fishing. I didn’t take pictures of them because I didn’t want to seem like a weirdo (more-so). They were right next to their cars, and it turns out there is a road that makes this possible. I’d love to come back by car and check this out. But this article is about the water not the roads, let’s move on.

On this part of the river there are a lot of farms, some of them have “break walls” of a kind. You are also likely to see a lot of diesel powered pumps that are irrigating the fields.

Shortly after this the river branches in two, there is a white channel marker and a white camper to indicate this. Today we are going up the east branch. The camper may have nothing to do with navigation, but it’s probably more visible than the marker.

The Holland River Marina is right after the branch, it seems in good shape and has a gas pump. Which is a lot more than you can say for what’s coming up.

Speaking of, see Albert’s Marina. It looks like there was once a gas bar here, but it’s gone. It looks like there was also a restaurant of some kind the “SAIL ‘ER INN”. Thank God it’s closed or seems to be. I’d rather drink a swimming pool of Holland River water than eat whatever was once on offer here. I mean, not really, but you get the idea. Most of the surfaces around here are covered in goose poop.

There is a surprisingly large cutout/pool here with almost nothing in it. Except for this bizarre “house boat” type thing? Huge, with four pontoons supporting it. No engine or interior of any kind, it looks like a redneck’s idea of a floating office. There are also a lot of campers and boats stored on land. I know I keep bringing this up, but who owns this stuff and why is it just sitting here? A few of these boats are worth something (not many, but some) and I just can’t get over who lets them sit and rot.

Speaking of, right after this is Sunset Harbour Marina. Which is mostly rotting wood. It’s a marina only in the most aspirational sense, like a heroin addict talking about how they’re going to get it together soon and catch their big break.

After this there are some homes and our final marina, Riversports Recreation. Which is right next to Queensville Sideroad. At this point I thought I should probably stop. I was worried about weeds in the water. If I got the intake blocked here it would take a long time to get all the way back out to the lake. Either that or I’d have to swim in the river to get the intake cleared. I have no idea what’s in this water. But from the looks of it there would be things that get into your orifices. Things that are alive.

However! No risk no reward! A true adventurer never gives up, at least not until he freezes to death. So I kept going. The river seems to go on and on from here. There were houses, then empty river where you think it will end, then more houses, then more empty, river, then more houses, etc. At this point I was really getting scared, I thought for sure I’d fouled the intake with all the weeds in the water. The river had become more of a stream, then something closer to a creek.

But nope, I gave the throttle a few hits when I wasn’t in front of anyone’s house and all was well. I finally hit the end of the navigable portion of the river here, right next to someone’s “dock”. There were many trees and logs fallen across the river at this point. You might be able to get a canoe or kayak further, but this was it for the WaveRunner. From Google Earth it looks like the river finally peters out somewhere around Bailey Ecological Park in Newmarket, which is at least as far again as I’d already come. But as I said, probably not much more than a creek that’s mere inches deep for most of that.

Remember that white marker? There’s a West Holland River too….

What’s at the Bottom of Cooks Bay: Part Two, the East Holland River