What’s at the Bottom of Cook’s Bay: Part Two, the East Holland River

This article originally appeared in slightly edited form in my cottage newsletter the “Big Cedar News”. A small weekly for residents of Big Cedar Point on Lake Simcoe.

Inspired by the positive feedback of literally dozen of people I decided to keep this going and continue exploring. My name may not yet be counted amongst the likes of Amundsen, Scott, Franklin, or Shackleton… but at least I haven’t frozen to death. So I’ve got that going for me, which is nice.

Anyway, as presaged in the last article, what’s at the bottom of the Holland River? Quite a lot it turns out. Even I was surprised by how far you can go. It may not be as scenic as the Danube or the Rhine, but it has the big advantage of being much closer to me than either of those rivers. That’s the only advantage, everything else is worse.

But wait! Before we enter the Holland River it’s time to catch up on one thing we left out of the last article. The Maskinonge River, or “that river that Krates Marina is on”. My daughter and I decided to go out for lunch by boat recently, and I wanted to go somewhere I’d never gone before. Looking at the map I found that the “Riveredge Restaurant” is on that river. It looked dodgy from the outside but was actually fine inside, the food was edible, and the beer was cold. If you’re looking for more than that Keswick is not where you want to be. Anyway, everyone was very friendly. To continue up the river from Krates there is a low bridge that you need to go under. A Waverunner/Sea-Doo will go under no problem, but larger boats will have an issue. The image of the restaurant itself is from their website, the other is our exploration vessel. See also my companion for this lunch, she looks ecstatic, after all what 13-year-old girl wouldn’t love seeing the Maskinonge River?

As mentioned in the last article, for such as small “river” you can go surprisingly far on it, though most of it looks like this.

The little marina you see here is called AM Watersports and will rent you a jet-ski. In doing this I’ve been surprised by how many of these little operations are on the lake. Must be hard to make money renting for only a few months a year, and realistically only a few weekends of those months.

Unfortunately, while the jet-ski is great for exploring because of its shallow draft, it has one fatal problem. If you drive through a weedy area you can block the jet intake (it will suck up loose weeds). It’s unlikely to make the machine quit running, but anything other than idle speed will become impossible as the intake simply can’t pull enough water. This happened to us here, and I had to go slowly all the way back out to the lake and to one of the parks from part one. There I had to get in the water and under the ski to pull out the weeds. Keep this fact in mind.

Back to the Holland River. Which is much closer to being an actual river.

The entrance to the river is nondescript except for some channel markers. The first thing I noticed was that there were a great many channel markers stuffed up on the banks of the river. I guess they’ve moved and no one has come to move them back?

Here around the mouth of the river there were also a fair number of people fishing. I didn’t take pictures of them because I didn’t want to seem like a weirdo (more-so). They were right next to their cars, and it turns out there is a road that makes this possible. I’d love to come back by car and check this out. But this article is about the water not the roads, let’s move on.

On this part of the river there are a lot of farms, some of them have “break walls” of a kind. You are also likely to see a lot of diesel powered pumps that are irrigating the fields.

Shortly after this the river branches in two, there is a white channel marker and a white camper to indicate this. Today we are going up the east branch. The camper may have nothing to do with navigation, but it’s probably more visible than the marker.

The Holland River Marina is right after the branch, it seems in good shape and has a gas pump. Which is a lot more than you can say for what’s coming up.

Speaking of, see Albert’s Marina. It looks like there was once a gas bar here, but it’s gone. It looks like there was also a restaurant of some kind the “SAIL ‘ER INN”. Thank God it’s closed or seems to be. I’d rather drink a swimming pool of Holland River water than eat whatever was once on offer here. I mean, not really, but you get the idea. Most of the surfaces around here are covered in goose poop.

There is a surprisingly large cutout/pool here with almost nothing in it. Except for this bizarre “house boat” type thing? Huge, with four pontoons supporting it. No engine or interior of any kind, it looks like a redneck’s idea of a floating office. There are also a lot of campers and boats stored on land. I know I keep bringing this up, but who owns this stuff and why is it just sitting here? A few of these boats are worth something (not many, but some) and I just can’t get over who lets them sit and rot.

Speaking of, right after this is Sunset Harbour Marina. Which is mostly rotting wood. It’s a marina only in the most aspirational sense, like a heroin addict talking about how they’re going to get it together soon and catch their big break.

After this there are some homes and our final marina, Riversports Recreation. Which is right next to Queensville Sideroad. At this point I thought I should probably stop. I was worried about weeds in the water. If I got the intake blocked here it would take a long time to get all the way back out to the lake. Either that or I’d have to swim in the river to get the intake cleared. I have no idea what’s in this water. But from the looks of it there would be things that get into your orifices. Things that are alive.

However! No risk no reward! A true adventurer never gives up, at least not until he freezes to death. So I kept going. The river seems to go on and on from here. There were houses, then empty river where you think it will end, then more houses, then more empty, river, then more houses, etc. At this point I was really getting scared, I thought for sure I’d fouled the intake with all the weeds in the water. The river had become more of a stream, then something closer to a creek.

But nope, I gave the throttle a few hits when I wasn’t in front of anyone’s house and all was well. I finally hit the end of the navigable portion of the river here, right next to someone’s “dock”. There were many trees and logs fallen across the river at this point. You might be able to get a canoe or kayak further, but this was it for the WaveRunner. From Google Earth it looks like the river finally peters out somewhere around Bailey Ecological Park in Newmarket, which is at least as far again as I’d already come. But as I said, probably not much more than a creek that’s mere inches deep for most of that.

Remember that white marker? There’s a West Holland River too….

What’s at the Bottom of Cook’s Bay: Part Two, the East Holland River

Hike the Bruce Trail Day Seven: The Hammer

Left from Lake Simcoe for this one, as such I was on the road just after 5AM. I had left my backpack in Toronto so instead I used my son’s backpack from when he was in kindergarten. It worked surprisingly well, so much so that I think I’ll consider using it from now on. That way Will can be with me on the hike, in a way. It also meant that I didn’t have my bug spray.

Start: Albion Falls

End: Tiffany Falls Conservation Area

Distance: 21.3km

Weather: 25C and sunny

The Route

The lack of bug spray was immediately a problem. The beginning of the hike was through the woods and the mosquitos were out in full force. Still, the views out over the city from the escarpment were beautiful. Some even better ones were yet to come.

There’s not much wilderness on either side of the trail for long. Eventually, as you can see from the map, it’s city on both sides of you until you get to the other side of Hamilton. There’s still forest, but it doesn’t extend more than a few dozen meters on either side.

Here the trail joins up with Hamilton’s urban trail system. Technically this portion is called the “Escarpment Rail Trail” and it follows the pathway of the old Hamilton & Erie railway along the escarpment (as you’d expect). Because it’s an urban trail you see a lot more “urban” things like discarded shopping carts and graffiti. You might think this would bother me, as the Bruce Trail is primarily meant to be a nature trail. But it’s fine, it’s nice to have something to break up the woods, and it gives me something to write about. I was surprised that I wasn’t seeing any homeless encampments, since this would be prime real-estate for them, and Hamilton is known for having a serious homelessness/drug problem.

Eventually I came to an enormous stairway that seems to be Hamilton’s Ministry of Silly Walks. I saw one person who would take a step, stretch that leg, take another step, stretch that leg, and so on. There was another person who was sort “crab walking” sideways one way, then the other. I’m guessing this is because the stairs go on for so long that people need to pace themselves and prevent cramps. That doesn’t make it look any less silly though. At the top of the stairs you’re spit out onto some roads.

It’s about here that I started to notice the smell.

I’ve heard before that Hamilton has a certain odour to it. This is mostly to do with the steel mills and industry along the harbour. From up here you could get an excellent view of the mills and all their stacks, including the gas flare (the big open flame you can see in one of the pictures). It doesn’t smell “bad” per se… but it doesn’t smell good either. It’s just sort of there, and not as bad as you think. That could be Hamilton’s motto actually: “Hamilton: It’s here, and not as bad as you think.” It was also around this point I found evidence of some encampments, but I wasn’t sure if they were still occupied.

Descending slowly down the escarpment you’re treated to probably the best views of downtown you’ll see on the trail. But after this the trail is either briefly on roadways or follows next to them. There are some wonderful old homes up here. Because it’s Hamilton, most of them haven’t been torn down and replaced with McMansions. There were lots of walkers and runners when I rejoined the urban trail system. It was a stark contrast to how empty most of the trail has been so far. I guess people don’t really stray that far from home.

There was one last viewpoint with sweeping vistas out over the north side of Hamilton harbour before I was dumped into generic fields and woods again. I ran the last few kilometres as I was anxious to get back to the lake. I finished up at the entrance to the Tiffany Falls side trail. There were a large number of people getting ready for their “hike” to the falls. I’ve actually been there before with Addy & Will, it’s less than half a kilometre, yet people were still showing up in workout gear and with walking sticks. Oh well, at least they’re out there.

While I was waiting for my Uber to show up I glanced down at my pant leg and noticed a small bug crawling along. Yup, it was an adult female black legged tick. I did a tick check when I got home and couldn’t find any on my person, but it’s not just hype, they’re out there.

Only 749km to go!

Hike the Bruce Trail Day Seven: The Hammer

What’s at the Bottom of Cook’s Bay?

This article originally appeared in slightly edited form in my cottage newsletter the “Big Cedar News”. A small weekly for residents of Big Cedar Point on Lake Simcoe.

Although most people on the point have very capable boats these days, I’ve noticed that few seem to use them to go exploring. Part of that may be the price of fuel: as of this past weekend, mid-grade ethanol-free gas was about $2.15 per litre at Monto-Reno. Friday Harbour is usually even more expensive, so I imagine some Friday Harbour residents may have to cut back on plastic surgery this summer to keep their “Super Air Nautique” boats fuelled.

On a related note, has anyone else noticed that these places now ask for tips when you fuel up—and not just $2 or $5, but a percentage? I know the gas bar girls are cute, but to tip 20% on a $600 fill up they better be pumping more than gas.

Where were we? Ah yes, what’s at the bottom of Cooks Bay?

Let’s find out. Last summer, I bought a jet-ski, which is ideal for exploring shallow water quickly because it has a low draft and a high top speed. I apologize that the photos are not better, I had limited time and only an iPhone, which I was using while sitting on a jet-ski.

After rounding Roches Point—I’m only now learning that this is the correct spelling, that it’s pronounced “ro-shes” rather than “ro-ches,” and that it was named after an Irish man named Roch—the first intriguing sight is what appears to be a beautiful old house at the top of the hill. I’ve known since forever that this house is “owned by the Catholic church”. But that’s it. If anyone’s interested (you’re reading this aren’t you?) it’s called Loretto Maryholme Retreat. It offers “spiritual retreats” and is run by the Sisters of Loretto, who also run the Catholic girls’ school near where I live, Loretto Abbey.

The left picture is mine; the right is from their website.

Up next there is a road end that has what looks like a ferry dock and a tiny marina that I never knew about at Balfour Beach. No idea who owns the marina or how you get your boat there. I can’t find a website for it or much of any info on the internet.

After this I happened upon two old boat houses slowly rotting into the ground/water. They are way too far gone to fix at this point, and one of them (the left) still seems to have furniture inside. They are surrounded by well-maintained homes though, so someone must still own them.

After the boat houses there is the sort of “main” Keswick boat launch. It’s called Rayners Park. I remember David Otten and I towing two broken down boats back here with my “15” (boat/motor) when we were kids and out fishing.

Up next I found a nice little float plane pulled up on someone’s “lawn”. It was in nice shape, but judging by the amount of junk around it, hasn’t flown in some time. Mental that people can afford to buy this stuff then let it rot.

It’s at a house right next to “Joy Marrit Parkette” and amazingly is visible on Google Earth (you can see the plane center right). There’s quite a few interesting things here. If you look closely there seems to be a few sunken boats just offshore. I’ll have to come back again and see if I can spot them. Soon, as the water is uncommonly clear right now and probably won’t stay that way.

Post Script: About a week later I went back and was unable to see any sunken boats. I used Google Earth on my phone to ensure I was at the exact right spot, but there was nothing but sand and rocks.

After this I found a little waterway with a pedestrian bridge over it.

I can’t find out what this park is called, but it’s clearly visible on Google Earth.

Up next is Claredon Beach Park. It’s nice that Keswick has tried to make the lakeshore publicly accessible. Of course, the lakeshore has the town of Keswick behind it (motto: “Our family trees have no branches.”) so you win some, you lose some.

I’m sure everyone knows Krates Marina by now, as it’s hard to miss. There could be a whole separate article about this one, as it’s built on the outlet of a creek that is navigable by small boat for a surprising distance. I’ve done this many times before, so I skipped it this time. What I didn’t expect to see was a giant “No Hunting” sign on the breakwall leading into the marina. I haven’t the foggiest idea what anyone would be hunting here. Ducks perhaps? Any ducks you shot here would probably taste like gasoline, motor oil, and failure, which again makes the idea of hunting them puzzling.

Past Krates things really get interesting, the water is very shallow, enough that most propeller driven boats would be at risk of striking the bottom. Especially near the end of the summer when the water is low. As such, I’ve not known anyone on the point to regularly come this far.

Unbelievably there is a whole other marina down here. Called C.W. Marine & Powersports. I’ve never been in there before. They have a huge floating dock out front where they rent jet-skis. Last summer I think they had one of those floating bouncy castle type things.

Now, as many of you know, my family on my father’s side hails from the Netherlands. Its greatest city, Amsterdam, is a city of canals that was built on top of a swamp. However, building canals on a swamp does not neccesarily mean you end up with Amsterdam. Instead you end up with… this?

Yes, there is a small canal “system” right here at the end of lake with houses on both sides. If you’ve never seen it before, you will experience a level of shock and awe similar to the second gulf war. Some of it is… fine, some of it is… decaying. I think most people reading this will be surprised it exists at all. You can enter it just past the “last house” before the shoreline turns into proper swamp then farmers fields. Incidentally this house is quite nice, I wonder who built it here, and why.

From the water side the only evidence it exists is a bent metal pole with some navigation markers on it, which may also have once held a flag.

So that’s it. After that there’s nothing until you hit the Holland River and then start coming back.

The Holland River… I wonder what’s really at the bottom of that?

Here is the link to the Google Earth project that has all the POIs.

What’s at the Bottom of Cook’s Bay?

Hike the Bruce Trail Day Six: Canada Day

Since it was a holiday and I had absolutely no plans, I slept in. There was no rush to get home, and no rush hour traffic, so no need to start super early. I left the house just before 8AM and was on the trail just before 9AM.

Start: Beamer Memorial Conservation Area

End: Albion Falls

Distance: 27.1km

Weather: 35C and partly cloudy

The Route

The weather was super hot this time, I brought lots of water.

The trail started on mostly surface streets, and there are some really nice homes up there on Ridge Road. Unfortunately it looks like I’ll miss the Grimsby Garden Tour.

I was thinking a lot about that word while I was walking… “home”. In a very real sense I don’t feel like I have one anymore. I have a house I live in (for now) and people come and go from it, but the sense of “home” doesn’t seem to exist anymore, at least not the way it did.

Sorry about that, the rest of the post will be more upbeat.

There were lots of fields, some interesting cars including a Corvette for sale and a derelict VW bus. I met a couple going in the opposite direction who were wearing the minimum amount of clothing not to get arrested, but were absolutely firing on all eight cylinders. I mean if they aren’t making money off “amateur” films they are missing out. I thought this would be a harbinger of things to come (other hikers I mean) in that it was Canada Day and what better way to celebrate than enjoying the beautiful nature this country has to offer? But, I met surprisingly few people on the trail, and this was my longest hike so far.

As I suspected when I was looking at the map for this section of the trail, there really isn’t that much to talk about. It was just a walk through the woods. Which is nice, but you run out of stuff to say pretty fast. I mean really, how many pictures can you take of trees?

None the less, you’ll see some photos of what I’m pretty sure are flowers and berries that I haven’t photographed before. In the early sections near Grimsby there were again some gorgeous lookouts over the peninsula and Lake Ontario.

I saw quite a few birds on this hike: There were a few hawks screaming and taking flight as I walked past, a mating pair of Blue Jays that shadowed me for a kilometre or two (did you know they mate for life, noble creatures), many Robins (I found an egg right in the middle of the trail), and a few Red Jays (sorry I can’t resist, this is what my son Will called them the first time he saw them). Unfortunately they move so fast that it’s almost impossible to get a picture of them.

Once I started crossing railroad tracks I knew I was getting closer to what I thought might be my stopping point. The Devil’s Punchbowl is a waterfall/rock formation just outside Hamilton, Ontario. The trail doesn’t actually go up to the falls, but I walked up to them anyway. I met two young guys playing marbles here. They were digging small holes in the hill then seeing who could throw a marble closest to or in the hole. They were very enthusiastic about it and I’m sure would have let me join in if I asked.

It’s hard to do the Devil’s Punchbowl justice with an iPhone photo, so here’s a video:

At this point it was about 12:45PM. I had finished almost all my water, and was starting to get tired, to the point that I was stumbling and tripping on rocks and/or roots. I didn’t bring any food or drink (other than water) with me so I thought I’d see if there was somewhere nearby I could retire for lunch. Luckily I was in Stoney Creek, which is just outside Hamilton. And, in Hamilton you’re never too far from a drunk. I mean a drink. I mean… you get the idea. Apple Maps informed me that The Powerhouse was only about 1.5km away and that it was built into the historic power house for the local light railway. That sounded right up my street (or rail) so I walked over. I actually almost threw up from the change of hot and humid outside to air conditioning inside, along with a glass or two of ice water. Luckily that soon subsided and I had some lunch and a cold beer. My God a cold beer tastes great when you’ve earned it. I know I said the same thing last time but it’s true. It was a neat place, the ceiling joists were amazing, made of such huge timbers that I doubt you could recreate them now, there are no trees left that are big enough. I forgot to get any pictures of this, sorry.

I could have retired at this point but I decided to carry on. While I was walking I could hear rushing water, but no obvious source. Walking off the trail a bit I found this:

I passed another beautiful waterfall:

After this it was mostly local trails. I was getting very tired now. It was hard to go on, my feet were hurting, my joints were hurting and my legs were starting to falter. It really was time to stop. I made it to Albion Falls and threw in the towel.

I sent my hiking log to the Niagara section of the trail and they approved it! I should be getting my Niagara end-to-end badge soon.

Only 770.3km to go!

Hike the Bruce Trail Day Six: Canada Day

Hike the Bruce Trail Day Five: Vineyards, Vultures, Vader’s Day

The first thing I noticed today was that it took less time to drive to my starting point. I’m very slowly getting closer to Toronto. Eventually, somewhere around Halton Hills, I’ll hit the closest point and then start moving away again.

Start: Cave Springs Conservation Area

End: Beamer Memorial Conservation Area

Distance: 20.4km

Weather: 21C and partly cloudy

The Route

The hike started with some beautiful views out over the local vineyards to the lake. It was quite striking with the sun coming up. For some reason I really noticed the ferns on this hike. I don’t really have anything interesting or funny to say about that, there were a lot of ferns. If anyone is reading this (ha!) and knows a good fern joke let me know. I’ve also been on the lookout for interesting mushrooms/fungi, but I haven’t seen much. When I was portaging in northern Ontario as a kid I used to see all kinds of interesting fungi, but not much here. It’s possible that a well maintained trail simply doesn’t have enough decaying wood/leaf matter to foster them.

Again, there were lots of surface street sections here, many of them going right past wineries. They are all closed at 7:30AM of course. I have half a mind to bring some wine with me and each time I pass a winery, stop, and have a “tasting” of my own. Wine is mostly water, so it counts as hydration. I do not have a problem. In addition to lots of vineyards I stumbled upon a lost/discarded journal. The first page contained a Post-It Note reminding the owner to get some Ozempic.

I encountered more hikers this time than normal. Possibly because the weather was so nice, possibly because it was Father’s Day. There was a dad and his three kids who were running the trail, I caught them on the way out and back. I asked my kids what they wanted to do for Father’s Day, they said anything but hiking. So, I have some work to do there.

Just before Thirty Mile Creek I encountered my friends from the previous hike, the two vultures. I managed to snap a photo of one this time. I have no reason to believe these are the same two as the last time, but I’m going to anyway. Most people would think that having a pair of vultures shadowing them would be a bad sign. But we don’t really know what vultures are like, maybe they’re nice. They may even provide meat rain from time to time, so that’s good. I also happened upon a groundhog who came out on the road to sun himself.

After Forty Mile Creek I had a choice. The main trail goes in an eastbound loop out to the edge of the escarpment. However, I could cut about 1.8km off my hike by taking a side trail “short cut” to the next parking lot. I resolved that my goal was to hike the main trail, so I did. I was richly rewarded; the trail goes right to the edge of the escarpment where the creek cuts it in half. There were gorgeous views out over the town of Grimsby and Lake Ontario. They even had elevated viewing platforms. Just before the parking lot there was another elevated platform for the “Niagara Peninsula Hawkwatch”. I climbed it but didn’t see any hawks. Worst. Hawk platform. Ever.

When I requested an Uber to take me back to my start point I really thought I’d had it. I got the “we’re trying to find you a driver” message, where I was just waiting. I did finally match with a driver who was 25 minutes away. Amazingly he showed up and was really interested in the trail and what I was doing. The next few hikes transit Hamilton so it shouldn’t be a problem, but it was a nail biting few minutes.

Right next to my start point was the Cave Springs Vineyard tasting room and it happened to be open by this time. Of course, I tasted some wine and brought home a few bottles. It was Father’s Day after all.
As far as I can tell I have now completed the Niagara section of the trail and can apply for my “all the way” Niagara badge! Pictures to follow.

I thought of one. Why is a forest floor covered in ferns said to be “richly” covered? Because they out f-earn all the other plants. insert audience silence with lone person coughing sound

Only 797.4km to go!

Hike the Bruce Trail Day Five: Vineyards, Vultures, Vader’s Day

Hike the Bruce Trail Day Four: Wild, Life

Up by 5AM and this time my body was ready for it, so no need to pack the bog roll. I applied my sunscreen and insect repellant before leaving the house, which was good because it was a beautiful sunny day.

Start: Rockway Conservation Area

End: Cave Springs Conservation Area

Distance: 21.3km

Weather: 27C and sunny

The Route

The highlight of the day happened within the first minute. As I was walking away from the car I spotted out of the corner of my eye what looked like a deer crossing the street. Upon closer inspection it turned out to be a fully grown, bushy tailed, male eastern coyote! Unfortunately it ran off before I could get a picture. I had no idea they grew that large, happening upon one in the woods would be pretty frightening for the timid. I doubt they would threaten or attack anything other than a small child though. Take note small children: If you are hiking the Bruce Trail alone carry a semi-automatic rifle!

Lots of small waterfalls on this one, as the route passed over Sixteen, Eighteen, and Twenty Mile Creek(s), along with a bunch of other ones that seem to be unnamed. Many of the features on the peninsula are named after their distance (in miles obv.) from the mouth of the Niagara river where it flows into Lake Ontario. I appreciate that this is because when these things were named, the main method of transport/trade was probably by boat up and down the coastline of the lake. The building of the QEW (Queen Elizabeth Way, the main highway through the area) first requiring the birth of Queen Elizabeth II, which was at least 150 years away. However, I still feel like they could have gone with something more original.

After a short hike through the bush I was spit out onto surface roads, many of which go right by some of the area wineries. Regrettably, most tasting rooms don’t open until 11AM. To anyone wondering if I would actually taste/purchase wine while hiking the trail the answer is obvious. Of course I bloody would have. While walking down 17th street I noticed that you could see directly across the lake towards Toronto, and the day was clear enough to see the skyline. It’s difficult to get a picture of how it looks in real life, but it was quite striking. Here I encountered two other hikers, two Polish ladies whose names escape me. They were also trying to hike from bottom to top. They were shocked that I was only on my fourth day, while they are over a year in.

The next highlight was Balls Falls. There’s a little “Pioneer Village” type thing there with an old mill, blacksmiths, church etc. The buildings were all open and unattended, which is nice to see, that there’s still trust in people. I kind of broke down in the church and had a little weep about what I’ve lost. Sorry, I promise the rest of the post is more upbeat. The falls themselves are really large, but the volume of water going over them was not too much. I was actually there earlier in the year, in May, and there was easily several times, perhaps a dozen times, the volume of water going over the falls.

After this I nearly jumped out of my skin, when, on the next wooded section a giant bird took off as I walked past, making a huge racket. From the shape and colour of the tail I’m pretty sure it was a turkey. Small children take note: your semi-automatic rifle should be a shotgun, good for getting turkeys! In addition to a million squirrels and chipmunks there were also lots of toads and a few frogs out. Near the end of the hike at Cave Spring I stopped to look out over a large cliff only for two huge vultures to take off from the trees at the edge. I managed to kind of snap a picture of one, but without a telephoto lens wildlife photography is pretty useless. It’s here I encountered a 71 year old lady whose name escapes me, something like Ronda, but not that, or maybe that, not sure. She was only a few weeks away from finishing the entire trail, having started in May of this year! Obviously she’s not doing it in order, but wow, I hope I’m doing that well at 71, if I make it.

At this point we need to talk about water. Despite there being water water-falls everywhere, there’s not a drop to drink, except what you take with you. The hot day meant that I had consumed the 750 odd millilitres that I brought with me pretty early and I was uncomfortably thirsty. Real dehydration is actually a scary feeling. Consulting the trail map I noticed that if I turned directly east, leaving the trail and following a creek bed, I would end up at a brewery. There’s a few problems with this which “Ronda” and I discussed:

  • Leaving the trail is actually against the trail code of conduct.
  • It’s not clear that you could actually hike along the entire creek, parts of it could be difficult or impassable.
  • The next exit from the trail (Cave Springs Conservation Area) was only about 1.5km away, and it should be possible to get an Uber to the brewery from there.

Despite the obvious chance for adventure I said goodbye to “Ronda” and hiked/ran the rest of the way on the trail. I did end up getting an Uber to Bench Brewing Company and quickly downed about two litres of water, followed by some beer and a sandwich. Cold beer tastes best when it’s well deserved.

Notes for next time:

  • Pack more water. Two litres at least.

Only 817.7km to go!

Hike the Bruce Trail Day Four: Wild, Life

Hike the Bruce Trail Day Three: Wild, Flowers

Another early start on this one, out of the house by 5:30AM. It really does make such a difference, I’m able to get in almost 20k and still be home for lunch. This time I packed sunscreen, a date square, and some trail mix, as well as the usual water and bug spray.

Start: DeCew House Heritage Park

End: Rockway, ON

Distance: 18.9km

Weather: 20C and sunny

The Route

The main thing I noticed on this trip were the wildflowers. I saw the following kinds:

Apologies that some of the pictures are blurry, I need more experience working with the iPhone’s macro mode.

Near the beginning of the trip was another large dam, DeCew Generating Station, which looked suitably ominous from afar with the big water gates. There were a few waterfalls on this trip, the biggest being DeCew Falls, which turned out to be a big disappointment. The whole area around the falls is fenced off, the only picture I could get is a tiny bit of it through a bunch of trees. Then a few other ones here and there that I don’t know the names of, if indeed they have a name.

Now the problem with starting at 5:30 in the morning is that your body isn’t used to “evacuating” that early. So by the time 7:30AM rolls around you’re on the trail and could really use a pit stop (number two in case that isn’t clear). Since I try to live by the old “take only pictures, leave only footprints” maxim, I wouldn’t be comfortable adding to the number of logs on the forest floor. Luckily about half way through the hike I stumbled on a “restroom” which is basically a shack with a hole in the ground and a toilet seat. I had a moment of panic after unberdening myself when I realized I didn’t first check to see if there was any toilet paper. Thankfully there was some of that awful single ply stuff you find in restrooms. I still maintain it’s counter productive as you end up using so much to avoid “punch-through” that regular two ply would have resulted in less waste.

I ended up walking in the wrong direction a few times on this trip. Much of the Bruce Trail goes through existing parks and conservation areas so there are often lots of other trails that cross it. This makes it easy to miss a marker and end up walking a few hundred meters on the wrong trail. I’m using the official Bruce Trail app to find my way, it’s really good and has the ability to plan hikes, track progress, and have offline maps. This is way more useful than you’d think as, especially in the more northern sections, there is no cellular service. Speaking of, what I’ve been doing so far is checking the Uber app once or twice on the hike to make sure that there will be a car that can take me back to where I started. At one point on this hike I did indeed run out of bars, luckily there was plenty of signal where I ended up. Still, it’s only a matter of time before the drive->hike->Uber->drive method fails somehow.

Looks like maybe two more trips and I can finish the Niagara section of the trail.

Notes for next time:

  • Consider packing some bog roll (toilet paper). Just a bit, in case you find a restroom that is not well stocked.
  • Related to the above, hand sanitizer. I didn’t have any and had to eat my trail mix “horse style” by shoving my face in the bag.
  • I packed sunscreen but forgot to use it. Amazingly even though I was doing this in the early morning and much of it under forest canopy I still got a bit red.

Only 839km to go!

Hike the Bruce Trail Day Three: Wild, Flowers

Hike The Bruce Trail Day Two: The Welland Canal, The Welland Canal, The Welland Canal, and The Welland Canal

I figured that if I’m going to have a hope in hell of actually doing this I should probably get some appropriate gear. Things like clothes, backpack, bug spray etc. I went to MEC and bought all that stuff. Despite most of my items being “on sale” it added up real fast. I have no idea why that store went out of business so many times. It wasn’t empty either. One interesting note was that I decided not to go with DEET based bug spray at this time, as the salesman informed me that it will melt some synthetic fibres. Yikes! Anyway the bugs weren’t that bad.

Start: Woodend Conservation Area

End: DeCew House Heritage Park

Distance: 18.3km

Weather: 15C and sunny

The Route

Got out of the house by 5:30AM for this one. I needed to be back in Toronto by mid-day to go to the children’s dance recital. It also makes the driving really nice as there’s obviously no traffic on the way there. There’s still traffic on the way back but not the late-day rage traffic that Toronto is so good at.

This hike essentially transits the city of St. Catherines. As the title suggests, the really interesting part is the Welland Canal(s). By that I mean that it seems there has been at least four attempts at building a canal from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario via the Niagara Peninsula. The first canal you encounter walking from south to north is the third one. Or rather, some of the locks from the third one. Built of large stone blocks, they are really impressive, and some remnants of the doors can still be seen on the bottom. The second canal you encounter is the fourth or current canal. I’m guessing the locks here are mostly poured concrete. Very impressive, unfortunately I didn’t get to see any ships transiting. The third canal you encounter is the second one. Again made with stone blocks but the lock bays look smaller, some of them still have water in them and some are almost filled up with earth. The last canal you encounter is the first. There isn’t really anything left of it, as it was made of wood, there’s a little side trail that leads to a marker (pictured below) with some info about where one of the locks was. I’m pretty sure that’s the right order, but you may disagree, as the trail goes back and forth over some of these things a few times.

The Bruce Trail crosses the current Welland Canal via a road bridge right next to the GM St. Catherines engine plant. That’s kind of neat, I had no idea that GM V8 engines were built here in Ontario. As far as I can tell these would not be Corvette engines, but V8s that go in trucks/SUVs. The plant dates from the 1950s, as does the original engine design (yes I know there are no parts in common with the original small block). It is possible to build stuff that lasts if you do it right the first time.

It’s here that I had to make a decision. The main trail now cuts right through “suburban” St. Catherines, which is not known for its natural beauty. Or artificial beauty for that matter. Beauty of any kind really. There is a longer side trail that goes along the canal and around the city, which sounds more up my street (or trail). However if I actually want to finish this thing it’s probably best to stick to the main trail. Anyway it wasn’t so bad, it’s on this part that you encounter what’s left of the first and second canal. Some of the trail is on regular streets which isn’t great but you can at least get a coffee or tea or meth (suburban St. Catherines remember). I opted for the tea. The rest of the trail was unremarkable, it goes through Brock University then around an artificial lake created by an OPG hydroelectric dam. I was getting short on time at this point so I actually ran the last few kilometres.

Notes for the future:

  • The Uber hack worked again, but it’s stressful. My dad suggested parking where I want to finish, then getting an Uber to where I want to start. I may try this next time, but if I get an early start there may not be many Uber’s available in the wee hours.
  • For the more northern sections I may need to drive to where I want to finish then take a bicycle or e-bike to where I want to start. Hike, then drive back and get the bike. We’ll see.

Only 858.8km to go!

Hike The Bruce Trail Day Two: The Welland Canal, The Welland Canal, The Welland Canal, and The Welland Canal

Hike the Bruce Trail Day One: The Beginning

I’m going through some changes in my life. These changes are very stressful. Having a goal, something to hang on to, can help in these kinds of situations. When I was a child, my uncle took myself and my cousins hiking on the Bruce Trail many times. I have very fond memories of it. Recently I’ve done the odd section here and there. But why not do something ambitious and hike the whole goddamn thing? The main trail is 890km long. Here we go.

Start: Southern Terminus

End: Woodend Conservation Area

Distance: 12.9km

Weather: 10C with heavy rain

The Route

Despite the cold and rain it was a wonderful hike. Some beautiful river valleys, rock formations, and sweeping vistas out to Lake Ontario and over forest floors. The trilliums were out, lots of frogs, toads, and snails. I encountered a guy “training” his puppies which basically meant they were off leash and followed me around for a while instead of him. The road sections of the trail proved to be the most entertaining from a story perspective.

On the first road section I met an “unhoused” person, or what we would have called a tramp/wino/bum in years past, he asked me how to get to Niagara Falls. Note that he was on foot, probably also “on” one or two other things and easily several hours walk from the falls. I pointed him in the general direction and wished him luck. The second encounter was a car that pulled over to talk to me. The lady driving the car asked “Have you seen a goat?”. I really had no idea what to say to that. It was the last question I was expecting. Apparently she owns a farm nearby and her “pet” goat had escaped. I took her number and promised to call if I saw it. I didn’t.

The difficulty with doing this yourself is avoiding doing it “twice”. By that I mean that you can park somewhere and hike the trail, but then you have to turn around and go back to where you parked. Luckily on the more southern parts of the trail there are urban areas close enough that you can get an Uber. So I hiked my 13k (approx) then had an Uber take me back to where I started. This was a big gamble, if no one showed up I would have had to walk to a nearby town or hike all the way back. Luckily it did work!

For anyone reading this (ha!) I expect that it will take several years to do the entire trail, which is not uncommon. So don’t expect weekly updates or anything.

Notes for the future:

  • Waterproof boots are a lie unless they’re rubber. Bring an extra pair of socks and shoes for the ride home.
  • Rain coats and pants are good. But in heavy rain your clothes underneath are still going to be wet. Bring an extra shirt for the ride home.
  • Soon bug repellant and sunscreen will be a necessity. I did a tick check afterwards and didn’t find anything.

Only 877.1km to go!

Hike the Bruce Trail Day One: The Beginning

1956 Johnson 30HP Parts Catalogue

I occasionally have needed to order parts for our 1956 Johnson outboard. You’d actually be amazed at how many are still available brand new. However, I sometimes have difficulty finding the correct part number. If you have the same problem with your 1956 Johnson worry no more! Here’s the official parts manual. Note that this is the Canadian version (see the spelling of “Catalogue” on the first page).

1956 Johnson 30HP Parts Catalogue