The first thing I noticed today was that it took less time to drive to my starting point. I’m very slowly getting closer to Toronto. Eventually, somewhere around Halton Hills, I’ll hit the closest point and then start moving away again.

The hike started with some beautiful views out over the local vineyards to the lake. It was quite striking with the sun coming up. For some reason I really noticed the ferns on this hike. I don’t really have anything interesting or funny to say about that, there were a lot of ferns. If anyone is reading this (ha!) and knows a good fern joke let me know. I’ve also been on the lookout for interesting mushrooms/fungi, but I haven’t seen much. When I was portaging in northern Ontario as a kid I used to see all kinds of interesting fungi, but not much here. It’s possible that a well maintained trail simply doesn’t have enough decaying wood/leaf matter to foster them.

Again, there were lots of surface street sections here, many of them going right past wineries. They are all closed at 7:30AM of course. I have half a mind to bring some wine with me and each time I pass a winery, stop, and have a “tasting” of my own. Wine is mostly water, so it counts as hydration. I do not have a problem. In addition to lots of vineyards I stumbled upon a lost/discarded journal. The first page contained a Post-It Note reminding the owner to get some Ozempic.

I encountered more hikers this time than normal. Possibly because the weather was so nice, possibly because it was Father’s Day. There was a dad and his three kids who were running the trail, I caught them on the way out and back. I asked my kids what they wanted to do for Father’s Day, they said anything but hiking. So, I have some work to do there.

Just before Thirty Mile Creek I encountered my friends from the previous hike, the two vultures. I managed to snap a photo of one this time. I have no reason to believe these are the same two as the last time, but I’m going to anyway. Most people would think that having a pair of vultures shadowing them would be a bad sign. But we don’t really know what vultures are like, maybe they’re nice. They may even provide meat rain from time to time, so that’s good. I also happened upon a groundhog who came out on the road to sun himself.

After Forty Mile Creek I had a choice. The main trail goes in an eastbound loop out to the edge of the escarpment. However, I could cut about 1.8km off my hike by taking a side trail “short cut” to the next parking lot. I resolved that my goal was to hike the main trail, so I did. I was richly rewarded; the trail goes right to the edge of the escarpment where the creek cuts it in half. There were gorgeous views out over the town of Grimsby and Lake Ontario. They even had elevated viewing platforms. Just before the parking lot there was another elevated platform for the “Niagara Peninsula Hawkwatch”. I climbed it but didn’t see any hawks. Worst. Hawk platform. Ever.

When I requested an Uber to take me back to my start point I really thought I’d had it. I got the “we’re trying to find you a driver” message, where I was just waiting. I did finally match with a driver who was 25 minutes away. Amazingly he showed up and was really interested in the trail and what I was doing. The next few hikes transit Hamilton so it shouldn’t be a problem, but it was a nail biting few minutes.

Right next to my start point was the Cave Springs Vineyard tasting room and it happened to be open by this time. Of course, I tasted some wine and brought home a few bottles. It was Father’s Day after all.
As far as I can tell I have now completed the Niagara section of the trail and can apply for my “all the way” Niagara badge! Pictures to follow.

I thought of one. Why is a forest floor covered in ferns said to be “richly” covered? Because they out f-earn all the other plants. insert audience silence with lone person coughing sound

Only 797.4km to go!

Up by 5AM and this time my body was ready for it, so no need to pack the bog roll. I applied my sunscreen and insect repellant before leaving the house, which was good because it was a beautiful sunny day.

The highlight of the day happened within the first minute. As I was walking away from the car I spotted out of the corner of my eye what looked like a deer crossing the street. Upon closer inspection it turned out to be a fully grown, bushy tailed, male eastern coyote! Unfortunately it ran off before I could get a picture. I had no idea they grew that large, happening upon one in the woods would be pretty frightening for the timid. I doubt they would threaten or attack anything other than a small child though. Take note small children: If you are hiking the Bruce Trail alone carry a semi-automatic rifle!

Lots of small waterfalls on this one, as the route passed over Sixteen, Eighteen, and Twenty Mile Creek(s), along with a bunch of other ones that seem to be unnamed. Many of the features on the peninsula are named after their distance (in miles obv.) from the mouth of the Niagara river where it flows into Lake Ontario. I appreciate that this is because when these things were named, the main method of transport/trade was probably by boat up and down the coastline of the lake. The building of the QEW (Queen Elizabeth Way, the main highway through the area) first requiring the birth of Queen Elizabeth II, which was at least 150 years away. However, I still feel like they could have gone with something more original.

After a short hike through the bush I was spit out onto surface roads, many of which go right by some of the area wineries. Regrettably, most tasting rooms don’t open until 11AM. To anyone wondering if I would actually taste/purchase wine while hiking the trail the answer is obvious. Of course I bloody would have. While walking down 17th street I noticed that you could see directly across the lake towards Toronto, and the day was clear enough to see the skyline. It’s difficult to get a picture of how it looks in real life, but it was quite striking. Here I encountered two other hikers, two Polish ladies whose names escape me. They were also trying to hike from bottom to top. They were shocked that I was only on my fourth day, while they are over a year in.

The next highlight was Balls Falls. There’s a little “Pioneer Village” type thing there with an old mill, blacksmiths, church etc. The buildings were all open and unattended, which is nice to see, that there’s still trust in people. I kind of broke down in the church and had a little weep about what I’ve lost. Sorry, I promise the rest of the post is more upbeat. The falls themselves are really large, but the volume of water going over them was not too much. I was actually there earlier in the year, in May, and there was easily several times, perhaps a dozen times, the volume of water going over the falls.

After this I nearly jumped out of my skin, when, on the next wooded section a giant bird took off as I walked past, making a huge racket. From the shape and colour of the tail I’m pretty sure it was a turkey. Small children take note: your semi-automatic rifle should be a shotgun, good for getting turkeys! In addition to a million squirrels and chipmunks there were also lots of toads and a few frogs out. Near the end of the hike at Cave Spring I stopped to look out over a large cliff only for two huge vultures to take off from the trees at the edge. I managed to kind of snap a picture of one, but without a telephoto lens wildlife photography is pretty useless. It’s here I encountered a 71 year old lady whose name escapes me, something like Ronda, but not that, or maybe that, not sure. She was only a few weeks away from finishing the entire trail, having started in May of this year! Obviously she’s not doing it in order, but wow, I hope I’m doing that well at 71, if I make it.

At this point we need to talk about water. Despite there being water water-falls everywhere, there’s not a drop to drink, except what you take with you. The hot day meant that I had consumed the 750 odd millilitres that I brought with me pretty early and I was uncomfortably thirsty. Real dehydration is actually a scary feeling. Consulting the trail map I noticed that if I turned directly east, leaving the trail and following a creek bed, I would end up at a brewery. There’s a few problems with this which “Ronda” and I discussed:

• Leaving the trail is actually against the trail code of conduct.
• It’s not clear that you could actually hike along the entire creek, parts of it could be difficult or impassable.
• The next exit from the trail (Cave Springs Conservation Area) was only about 1.5km away, and it should be possible to get an Uber to the brewery from there.

Despite the obvious chance for adventure I said goodbye to “Ronda” and hiked/ran the rest of the way on the trail. I did end up getting an Uber to Bench Brewing Company and quickly downed about two litres of water, followed by some beer and a sandwich. Cold beer tastes best when it’s well deserved.

Notes for next time:

• Pack more water. Two litres at least.

Only 817.7km to go!

I’m going through some changes in my life. These changes are very stressful. Having a goal, something to hang on to, can help in these kinds of situations. When I was a child, my uncle took myself and my cousins hiking on the Bruce Trail many times. I have very fond memories of it. Recently I’ve done the odd section here and there. But why not do something ambitious and hike the whole goddamn thing? The main trail is 890km long. Here we go.

Despite the cold and rain it was a wonderful hike. Some beautiful river valleys, rock formations, and sweeping vistas out to Lake Ontario and over forest floors. The trilliums were out, lots of frogs, toads, and snails. I encountered a guy “training” his puppies which basically meant they were off leash and followed me around for a while instead of him. The road sections of the trail proved to be the most entertaining from a story perspective.

On the first road section I met an “unhoused” person, or what we would have called a tramp/wino/bum in years past, he asked me how to get to Niagara Falls. Note that he was on foot, probably also “on” one or two other things and easily several hours walk from the falls. I pointed him in the general direction and wished him luck. The second encounter was a car that pulled over to talk to me. The lady driving the car asked “Have you seen a goat?”. I really had no idea what to say to that. It was the last question I was expecting. Apparently she owns a farm nearby and her “pet” goat had escaped. I took her number and promised to call if I saw it. I didn’t.

For anyone reading this (ha!) I expect that it will take several years to do the entire trail, which is not uncommon. So don’t expect weekly updates or anything.

Notes for the future:

• Waterproof boots are a lie unless they’re rubber. Bring an extra pair of socks and shoes for the ride home.
• Rain coats and pants are good. But in heavy rain your clothes underneath are still going to be wet. Bring an extra shirt for the ride home.
• Soon bug repellant and sunscreen will be a necessity. I did a tick check afterwards and didn’t find anything.

Only 877.1km to go!